Cv Replacement Procedure pictures to come soon!

DIFFICULTY RATING:


CV Replacement Procedure

Neither the author of this article nor NCFJ Cruisers administration are responsible for any injury or damage you incur. This is a how to do thread and persons assume all liabilities upon doing this work. Please proceed with caution!


SYMPTOMS OF CV JOINT FAILURE:
Bad boots are not the only thing you need to look for. You also need to listen for noise or complaints that might indicate a CV joint problem. These include:

Popping or clicking noises when turning. This almost always indicates a worn or damaged outer CV joint. To verify this condition, place the vehicle in reverse, crank the steering wheel to one side and drive the vehicle backwards in a circle (check the rearview mirror first!). If the noise gets louder, it confirms the diagnosis and the need for a new CV joint or replacement shaft assembly.

A "clunk" when accelerating, decelerating or when putting the transaxle into drive. The noise comes from excessive play in the inner joint on FWD applications, either inner or outer joints in a RWD independent suspension, or from the driveshaft CV joints or U-joint in a RWD or AWD powertrain. The same kind of noise can also be produced by excessive backlash in differential gears. To verify the condition, back the vehicle up, alternately accelerating and decelerating while in reverse. If the clunk or shudder is more pronounced, it confirms a bad inner joint.

A humming or growling noise. Sometimes due to inadequate lubrication in either the inner or outer CV joint, this symptom is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal length halfshaft transaxles, or due to worn shaft bearings within the transaxle.

A shudder or vibration when accelerating. May be caused by play in the inboard or outboard joints, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint. Similar vibrations can also be caused by a bad intermediate shaft bearing on transaxles with equal length halfshafts, or by bad motor mounts on FWD vehicles with transverse-mounted engines.

A vibration that increases with speed. This symptom is rarely caused by a failing CV joint. An out-of-balance tire or wheel, an out-of-round tire or wheel, or a bent rim are the more likely causes.

And Breakage from off road conditions. You will know when this happens.

Tool list:

Jack x 1
Jack Stand x 2
Gloves
½” impact or breaker bar and a ½” torque wrench
½” drive sockets 19mm, 21mm and 35mm
Rubber mallet
Mini sledge (I use a 4lb)
Pry bar 24”
Chisel or flathead screw driver
Needle nose pliers
Magnetic tray
Arm span length of rope
Ant seize
Blue loc tite
Chock block x 2
Assortment of cotter pins
Fluid catch container

Instructions:

1. SAFTY FIRST, Make sure vehicle is in park for automatics and a forward gear for manuals and set the parking brake.
2. Place a chock block behind each rear wheel.
3. This will vary depending on terrain and tools, with manual tools break the lug nuts loose at this time DO NOT remove them just loosen them enough to get them started. Then find a suitable safe place to jack the vehicle up on whichever side you are working on and raise the vehicle enough to raise the tire off the ground. Place a jack stand under the frame where it will not be in the way.
4. With air tools and manual tools you can now remove the lug nuts and set them in a magnetic tray.
5. If you have a wheel spacer and have manual tools use the pry bar to keep the hub from turning while you remove the spacer lug nuts. Air tools just remove lugs, you shouldn’t have any trouble. Place lugs in the magnetic tray.
6. Using a chisel or flat tip screw driver and sledge, carefully remove the hub dust cover by tapping between the hub and cover. If it has never been removed this is a slow process due to the tight tolerances. Avoid puncturing the cap.
7. Using the needle nose pliers remove the cotter pin and retainer setting them in the magnetic tray.
8. If you have a impact use the 35mm socket to remove the axle nut. If you are using a breaker bar wedge the hub with your pry bar again. It is extremely tight. Factory torque is 174ftlb’s. Be careful please.
9. Do not remove the nut completely; leave it threaded on the end to protect the threads. Now get your rubber mallet and tap the axle nut until it releases from the hub bearing. One it is free remove the nut and place in the magnetic tray.
10. Now using the needle nose pliers remove the cotter pin for you outer tie rod, and set in the magnetic tray
11. Loosen the tie rod nut with a 19mm socket but DO NOT take it all the way off. Leave it threaded on to protect the threads.
12. Get the mini sledge and hit the SPINDLE on the front facing part where the tie rod sits in it. This is a tapered hole. Some pb blast or equivalent might help. What you are doing is trying to break the seal of the taper. Be careful not to damage the tie rod boot or dust shield.
13. Once Tie rod is free remove nut and set in magnetic tray.
14. Using your 19mm socket remove the 2 bolts that connect the spindle to the lower a arm. Now set these in your magnetic tray.
15. Using your rope tie one end to the spindle where the tie rod goes through and run the rest back over the body mount. Pull the rope tight to hold the spindle and brake assy. out of your way.
16. Now place you catch can under the axle where it goes in to the housing and get your pry bar. Place the pry bar between the housing and the axle where the go together and give it a push. Don’t be dismayed is it doesn’t break free the first time. There is a circle clip that you have pull free. Be careful not to damage the seal. Once you hear it pop free gently pull the shaft out of the axle and out of the pocket and set aside.
17. Now the reassembly begins!
18. Get your new axle assembly and thread the hub nut on the end to protect the threads and slide the end with the circle clip in to the axle housing. You might have to turn it a little to get the splines lined up. Once aligned push in on the shaft and tap the end with the nut with your rubber mallet. You have to get the circle clip to compress a little to allow the splines to fully seat. You will feel it go in to place.
19. Now here is something I do to aide in any further work. Get your anti seize and put some on the splines the go through the hub and where the shaft goes in to the oil seal on back of the spindle. This helps lubricate and keep rust from forming.
20. Remove the nut and untie the rope be careful not to damage the inner seal on the back of the spindle.
21. Carefully insert the axle in the hub and slowly turn hub until splines line up and let the spindle and axle come together.
22. Thread the axle nut on now finger tight, and get the two lower spindle bolts from your tray. Coat the threads with blue loc tite and thread them through the lower control arm in to the spindle and torque to 118ft*lb.
23. Slide the outer tie rod back in to the spindle and put the castle nut back on and torque to 67ft*lb. If the holes in the castle nut are not aligned with the holes in the tie rod you can turn the castle nut an additional 60 degrees. Never loosen the nut to get the holes aligned. Also use a new cotter pin.
24. Now get your pry bar and wedge it in between the wheel studs and floor so the hub cant spin and torque the hub nut to 174ft*lb. Please be careful here.
25. Put the adjusting lock cap on in a way where the holes on the axle shaft and the holes in the cap line up. Using a new cotter pin slide this in and turn the tangs out to lock it in place.
26. Get your hub dust cover and rubber mallet and tap the cover back on until it is seated firmly.
27. Install your spacer or wheel in the same manner as removed but please be sure to loc tite the factory studs and spacer lug nuts.
28. Grab a cold beer and sit back and appreaciate the work you have just completed!

Looks good Cliff! Im new when it comes to the technical aspect of things so Im sure the pics will help it make more sense to me! As it is, its very simply written and easy to follow. Well done!!!